Character:
One of the true esoteric gems of North Wales limestone when in it’s in condition, which isn’t very often, this impressive gorge gives two walls of complete contrast. The slabby northern wall gives a mixture of bold face routes amongst sections of vegetated rock whilst the impressive south wall gives a number of incredibly overhanging routes, one of which is a true classic of the area. This wall is only in condition after a long dry spell and needs cool, non-humid weather with a pleasant breeze to be in perfect condition.
Approaches and Access:
From Mold, follow the A494 towards Ruthin. After just over a mile the road flattens out and passes the Rainbow Inn on the left. In a further half a mile, turn right and follow the road to Gwernaffield. Turn left and down into Pantymywn and park at a sharp right-hand bend just under a mile further on. From here continue straight down a short tarmacadum track and as the roads twists to the left cross a cattle grid and down to a left-hand bend in the track. The path continues straight on a passes the gorge on its left-hand side.