Exclusion Sector

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Harpur Hill Exclusion sector topo

1. Danny Cool (5) slim rib with short pleasant and technical moves.

2. Cool Danny (6b+) enjoyable face climbing after a tricky start over the overlap. Slightly up the banking.

3. Screaming Wheels (6b+) ★ the rounded arete of the buttress, direct past the BRs at the start.

4. Swain’s World (6b) ★ Fine exposed climbing just right of the arete of the buttress. Steep but juggy.

5. No Man’ Land (6c) ★ branches left out of Exclusion Zone to climb the face via a thin crack. Airy.

6. Exclusion Zone (6c) ★★ the centre of the fine face with a pumpy finale. Tricky first clip. { .retrobolted }

7. The Iron Curtain (6b) ★ Fine line via rib and shallow groove culminating in steep finale.

8. Mouse Hunt (6c) ★ Fine lower wall leads to an open and superb finish.

9. Slowly, Slowly Catch a Monkey (6a+) ★ groove follow by thin crack and protruding pillar. Very good.

10. Thing Thang (7a) ★ left-hand of two short routes up the hillside. Worthwhile.

11. Thang Thing (7a) right-hand line. Keep to face as closely as possible for the grade.

12. Slab de Lune (6a) pleasant intricate slab returning to moss, unfortunately.

Master of a lune (6b) slim face to right proves worthwhile.

13. Sack of Stones (6b) ★ left-hand of two excellent slabby face routes. Direct on line for grade, 6a+ using flake on left..

14. Bag of Bones (6a+) ★★ a little gem via a blunt rib left of a prominent block.

15. Plate of Scones (6b+) ★ a surprising find with a trying crux from the ledge. Easier above.

16. Sara Laughs (6b) ★ more pleasant intricate face climbing above ledges.

17. Tenth Heaven (6b) ★ pleasant technical face leading to easy flake crack.

18. Calci Mauve (6b+) ★★ excellent climbing via a pillar, technical rib and superb upper wall. High quality.

19. Glas Double (7a) ★ right-hand variant with some superb thin moves.

20. Flakey Pastry HVS 5a ★ the fine flake corner crack system to a lower off. Well worth seeking out.

21. Over the Hill (6c) ★★ finger crack, bulge and very fine headwall.

22. Nostalgia E4 6a ★★ superb trad. route via sinuous thin crack. New belay added.

23. The Omen (6b) ★★ long crack and grooveline to right gives a fine outing.

24. Yogi Bare (7a) ★ black face, technical, and fine finish left of BRs.

Four Telling Tales at Harpur Hill

1. Four Telling Tales (6c+) ★★ thin crack and left-hand side of arete, technical.

2. The Talisman (7a) ★ right-hand side of arete. Balancy. { .rebolted }

3. Bleingassen (6c) ★ long shallow groove line finish via arete and a good sized ledge at the top.

4. The Oracle (7b+) short technical test-piece up wall and blunt arete. Thin.