Overhanging Wall

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The steep and pumpy nature of the climbing rewards a go for it approach though take care on the easier top section at the right hand end of the wall where there is still some loose rock.

Reactn (6b+) Short groove and wall around to left. Surprisingly worthwhile

1. Java Script (7a+) The arete. Hard moves to transfer onto the right-hand side and a long reach higher up.

2. In the Pocket (6c+) * A series of good holds to a steep and reachy finale. Rebolted

3. Pocket Rocket (6c) ** Excellent pocket and edge pulling to the left of Eye, Eye via a left-facing flake. Steep. Rebolted

4. Eye, Eye (6b+) ** A superb pitch via a series of calcite encrusted pockets on the overhanging wall. Pure magic and the warm up for this wall. Rebolted

5. Exorcised (7b) ** Excellent but very fingery face climbing via the centre of the orange streak. Sustained. Rebolted

6. Exo6 (7a+/7b) ** Another fine sustained and fingery route straight up the orange wall. Recently lost a big hold making it harder and more sustained. Rebolted

7. Bison Fute (7a+) * The blunt rib on the edge of the crackline with a series of extending moves. High in the grade. Very fingery. Rebolted

8. Pierluigi Galena (7a) * The unusual-looking galena ridden groove line. Excellent, sustained climbing. Rebolted

9. Second Class Citizen (6c+) ** Sustained and fingery face climbing straight up the flat orange-tinged face to an awkward finale. Often suffers seepage at the top. Recleaned and rebolted.

10. Quatrieme Quartier (7a) ** Another fine sustained pitch direct up the wall left of the last route. Rebolted

11. Handy Borehole (6c+) ** Another fine pitch starting up the last route before branching off right to climb up via the large undercut borehole and fine grey streak above. Rebolted

12. The Premier Club (7a+) ** Takes the blank looking wall R of the Handy Borehole then joins that route for the 'borehole move'. Finish direct up the headwall L of the last route. Rebolted

13. The Masson Chronicles (7b) ** Full on climbing crossing Pete Clark to rejoin it after a very fingery sequence.

14. The Pete Clark Diaries (7a) * A difficult lower wall leads to slightly easier face climbing above. Rebolted

15. Nice One Masson (7a) *** The impressive overhanging wall to the left starting via a rock scar where a large flake once abode. Super sustained. Rebolted

16. New Start (7b) A desperate sequence involving a long reach to gain the start of Woof Justice from slightly to the left. Debolted by someone unknown.

17. Woof Justice (7a+) ** Branches out left via an 'ear' followed by difficult moves to a ledge. Easier above. Rebolted

18. Grand Theft Auto (7a) ** The prominent groove line finishing via the easier wall above. Another fine route with unusual bridging moves. Rebolted

Some of the lower offs on this wall are Pigtails. These don't require clipping in, untieing and threading but they can be confusing if you haven't used them before. To use: first put a half twist in the your rope and then thread it through from the left, over the spike and round so that the rope sits in the bottom of the hook.